Lisboa Fashion Week runs since 1991 and it occurs just after Paris Fashion Week in the
international calendar. This season LFW has showcased the collections of Portuguese fashion designers, alongside international designers and brands, promoting innovative and inspiring new projects.
Take a look at F'OLITIQUE's Top 5 Unexpected designers from Lisbon.
LUÍS CARVALHO
LUIS CARVALHO brand started its operation in 2013. The same year, Luís Carvalho presented his first collection at ModaLisboa and since then has been constantly present at Lisbon Fashion Week. COLOURGRAPHIC, a FW20/21 collection where the main element is the mix of colors, comes from a game of shapes and graphic lines. The works of several plastic artists serve as a reference for the construction of the pieces and silhouettes.
SILHOUETTES
Oversized and structured.
MATERIALS
Wools, crepe, embroidered tulle.
COLORS
Stronger shades, such as red, pink and yellow, alternating with more neutral tones such as black, ecru and ice gray.
HIBU
HIBU is a Portuguese brand founded in 2013 that creates genderless pieces, crossing multidisciplinary references and a minimal deconstructed aesthetic through a relaxed approach.
HIBU believes that in a disposable world with rapid consumption turnover, it is essential to redefine the role of fashion and achieve sustainability. Prompted by the vision that emerged with the CRU-L collection, HIBU remains loyal to reinventing the design of contemporary, genderless basics, devised to be timeless, through deconstructed details and oversized silhouettes with an emphasis on comfort, durability and practicality. The FW 20/21 collection seeks to complement and continue embedding an absence of gender identity, presenting new ways of wearing classics.
Francisco Pereira
TORN VISION collection is inspired by the collage work of Emon Toufanian, who wanted to awaken in the public all kinds of sensations with his surreal, melancholic and abrasive style. This collection intends to mark this intuitive and ritualistic reasoning through colors, textures, deconstruction and overlapping of pieces, which gain value and a relevant position in the construction of the collection, and, allied to prints, take us back to the artist's work.
KOLOVRAT
Established in 1990, Kolovrat offers a deconstructed new vision on men and women's tailoring, while keeping the DNA and finishing of a traditional savoir-faire.
Welcome the immigrants from the future. They are taller than us and they use things in a genuine way, interpreted by the newcomer’s eyes. They show developed feelings and sensuality, and they leave behind rationality and conditioning. It’s like they function in a non-logical way. They don’t have our sense and purpose. They came to teach us how to develop our capacities. These immigrants are setting up the mood for the collection, and they are showing us how we can loosen up our very fixed forms. And… along the way… all interconnects.
GONÇALO PEIXOTO
REBELLION collection is a manifestation that completely reappropriates the connotation “sexy miniskirt”. It's sexy, yes, but sophisticated at the same time. It draws a very fine line between tradition and challenging conventions. It’s to be subversive and elegant.
With shorter silhouettes and a series of black dresses, the FW 2020/21 collection talks about breaking rules through silhouettes, fabrics and colors.
With an edgy, cool and reckless approach, the deconstructed forms that we find in the nature of streetstyle are challenged to become timeless classics.
Photo credit: Ugo Camera